When the tour guide handed me a bright insulated survival suit I blurted, “Is this really necessary?”
I was with about a dozen fellow passengers, most of them retired, preparing to take a 90-minute zodiac tour among the islands and inlets around British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest. The suits seemed extreme until he explained that even close to shore the water is deep and bone-chilling; the suits can add roughly 15 minutes of survivable time if someone falls in. It was a stark reminder that, though the Holland America Noordam hovered maybe a hundred yards away, we’d stepped into a different world: remote communities, ferries as lifelines, and people who still pull dinner from nearby traps.
The sailing I took — Holland America’s seven-night Great Bear Rainforest itinerary aboard the Noordam — isn’t the fastest way to Alaska. That’s the point. Instead of racing up the Gulf of Alaska, the route nods to the classic Inside Passage, steering deeper into protected channels and smaller ports to prioritize scenery, wildlife and time ashore in places you don’t see on every Alaskan brochure.
A revived route
Modern cruise ships can handle open ocean and often choose quicker passages. Holland America’s plan splits the difference: sail from Seattle over open water to Ketchikan, Alaska, then return through the Inside Passage and the Great Bear Rainforest so passengers can experience narrow channels, old-growth shorelines and towns reachable mostly by boat.
The Great Bear Rainforest is the world’s largest temperate rainforest and home to the rare Kermode or “spirit” bear, a white-coated black bear that appears in First Nations stories. Seeing one isn’t guaranteed, but the region’s wildlife and cultural history are front and center.
Ports and what to expect
Ketchikan, Alaska: Our first call after the ocean crossing was Ketchikan. It’s touristy and compact — totem poles, Creek Street’s overwater shops and souvenir stands — but it’s fun as a quick, classic Alaska stop. Many people stayed on board; I walked the waterfront and took in the local sights.
Prince Rupert, British Columbia: Holland America’s overnight here made Prince Rupert a standout. The town itself is small — a few shops, a coastal trail, even a tiny Walmart — but it’s a gateway to expansive wilderness. I took an adults-only Northern Great Bear Rainforest zodiac excursion and donned that red survival suit. We didn’t spot a spirit bear, but we saw bald eagles, harbor porpoises and sea lions, and learned about Indigenous communities and the port’s role as a transportation hub. Guides showed us Dungeness and red rock crabs hauled from underwater traps — reminders of how local people rely on the sea.
Nanaimo, Vancouver Island: Nanaimo felt more lived-in than Ketchikan: vintage boutiques, bookstores, local art and bakeries selling the namesake bars. Holland America’s first visit to Nanaimo was busy; a Gallery Walk and cranberry farm tour filled quickly and our group faced long waits in the rain. I’d recommend exploring on your own or booking popular excursions early.
Victoria, Vancouver Island: Unlike many Alaska sailings that only stop for a few hours, we had a full day in Victoria. I joined the Malahat Skywalk & Victoria Highlights excursion — a mix of nature trails, sweeping views and a whimsical 12-story slide — then wandered downtown. Museums, a compact Chinatown, quirky shops and cozy pubs made it an easy favorite.
Scenery and wildlife
The cruising days were the trip’s heartbeat. Traveling through Grenville Channel, Johnstone Strait and Seymour Narrows felt intimate; shorelines passed close enough to make you reach for binoculars. Whales surfaced and spouted, often in pods, and onboard naturalists pointed out orcas, humpbacks and other species. Those sightings became communal moments on deck: excited chatter, camera flashes and debates over the best vantage point.
Shore excursions offer variety: rainforest walks, e-bike tours, kayaking, backcountry Jeep rides and fishing trips. I did a Rainforest Island Nature Walk and a Seahawk Adventure in Ketchikan, stepping onto tiny islands with guides who pointed out banana slugs, mushrooms and ancient western red cedars.
Culture and learning onboard
Holland America filled the voyage with contextual programming: port talks, nature lectures, wildlife-spotting lessons and commentary during scenic passages. In Prince Rupert a Nisgaa First Nations dance group performed aboard the ship — traditional dances and storytelling that added depth to our understanding of the region. Those onboard offerings made short time on land feel richer and helped connect the dots between ecosystems, history and local life.
Who this cruise suits
The line launched the route as a trial and has continued it, with multiple sailings planned. Prices vary by sailing and cabin: inside cabins on upcoming departures are listed in the low four figures per person (double occupancy), verandahs run higher, and combined longer itineraries can reach several thousand per person.
This itinerary is ideal for travelers who want a slower, more scenic approach to Alaska: veterans who’ve seen the usual highlights and want something different, and first-timers who like longer stops and outdoor options. Holland America’s passenger profile skews older, but there are activities for families and active travelers too — kids’ programs, pools, pickleball and art classes. If you’re after nightlife and late-night partying, this isn’t your cruise; it’s more about choosing between busy shore days and quiet time on the ship.
Final thoughts
I left Seattle with a new appreciation for narrow channels, coastal rainforests and the communities that live off the water. The survival-suit moment was a small, vivid lesson in how different these places are from busy ports and beach resorts. The Great Bear Rainforest itinerary trades speed for depth: longer stops, quieter shores and a sense of place you don’t always get on faster Alaska runs. I returned feeling connected to the region and eager to go back and explore more.