“Is this really necessary?” I asked the tour guide as he handed me an insulated full-body suit.
We — me and about a dozen fellow passengers, most around retirement age — were about to take a 90-minute scenic raft ride around British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest. The suits looked overkill until the guide explained that, even close to shore, we would be in deep, frigid North Pacific water; the suits could buy a fallen passenger about 15 extra minutes of survival time. It was a sharp reminder that, though the cruise ship Noordam sat perhaps a hundred yards away, we’d stepped into a very different world: remote islands, communities reachable mainly by ferry, and people who still harvest seafood for dinner from nearby traps.
This was Prince Rupert — an uncommon but rewarding stop on Holland America’s new “7-Day Great Bear Rainforest” itinerary. The sailing promised a different route to Alaska for roughly 2,000 passengers aboard the Noordam, prioritizing scenic channels, lesser-known ports and time in the Great Bear Rainforest rather than rushing straight to Alaska’s headline sights.
A new (old) route to Alaska
The itinerary nods to the gold-rush-era route through the Inside Passage, a protected network of channels between islands off Canada’s west coast. Modern ships can handle the open ocean and often bypass these waters for faster routes. Holland America’s new plan takes the Noordam over open ocean from Seattle to Ketchikan, Alaska, then back through the Inside Passage to showcase the scenery and visit smaller destinations unreachable by road.
We’d be exploring the Great Bear Rainforest, the world’s largest temperate rainforest, named in part for the rare white Kermode or “spirit” bear — a mutation of black bears that figures in First Nations’ lore.
As a longtime landlubber with a history of seasickness (and only one previous cruise), I appreciated that much of the route runs through more protected waters, which reduces rolling. I packed layers and rain gear and climbed aboard the Noordam eager to see Alaska and British Columbia.
Ports and highlights
Ketchikan, Alaska: Our first call after open-ocean crossing was Ketchikan, a common cruise stop. Many passengers stayed aboard; I went ashore to see totem poles and Creek Street’s overwater shops. It’s touristy, but still fun for a first taste of Alaska.
Prince Rupert, British Columbia: Holland America’s first overnight call here made Prince Rupert one of the more memorable stops. The town itself is small — shops, a coastal trail and a tiny Walmart — but it’s a gateway to vast wilderness. I took the adults-only Northern Great Bear Rainforest Zodiac excursion and donned the red survival suit. We didn’t see any spirit bears, but we spotted bald eagles, harbor porpoises and sea lions, and learned about local Indigenous communities and the port’s role as a transportation hub. Guides even showed us Dungeness and red rock crabs caught in underwater traps — destined for dinner.
Nanaimo, Vancouver Island: Holland America’s first call in Nanaimo brought challenges: our Gallery Walk and cranberry farm tour was overwhelmed by demand, leaving long waits in rain and a missed gallery walk. Still, the town felt larger and more authentic than Ketchikan: vintage boutiques, bookstores, local art, and bakeries selling Nanaimo bars. I’d prefer to explore Nanaimo independently rather than rely on crowded shore excursions.
Victoria, Vancouver Island: Our final land day was in Victoria. I joined the Malahat Skywalk & Victoria Highlights excursion — enjoyed nature walks, great views and a 12-story slide — then explored downtown: museums, shopping, quirky attractions, a small Chinatown and many pubs. Unlike many Alaska itineraries that only stop in Victoria for a few hours, we had a full day, which made it one of my favorite stops.
Outdoor adventure and wildlife
The scenery on cruising days was a major draw. Passing through Grenville Channel, Johnstone Strait and Seymour Narrows felt intimate — you almost could touch the shore. Whales appeared in pods, announcing themselves with spouts and tail slaps. Onboard naturalists pointed out orcas and other species; even from a distance the sightings were thrilling and became communal highlights (and occasional disputes over the best viewing chairs).
On shore, I took the Rainforest Island Nature Walk and Seahawk Adventure in Ketchikan, stepping onto a small island with a guide who pointed out mushrooms, banana slugs and ancient western red cedars. Other shore options included e-bike tours, kayaking, backcountry Jeep rides and fishing trips — enough variety to satisfy both adventurers and casual observers.
Cultural immersion and onboard programming
Holland America packed the cruise with educational programming: port talks, guest lectures on regional history, wildlife-spotting lessons and commentary during scenic cruising. In Prince Rupert, a Nisgaa First Nations dance group performed traditional dances and storytelling aboard the ship. These offerings deepened my connection to the region and made the shorter time on land feel richer.
Who should book it
Holland America launched the route as a trial and has continued it, with multiple sailings on the calendar in 2026 and 2027. Pricing varies by sailing and cabin: upcoming departures list inside cabins starting around $944–$1,149 per person (double occupancy) and verandah cabins from about $1,649; an 18-day combined Great Bear Rainforest and Alaska Explorer itinerary starts from about $3,189 per person.
This itinerary suits Alaska cruise veterans seeking fresh scenery and a slower pace, and also appeals to first-timers who want more time ashore and outdoor activity options. Holland America tends to attract older travelers, but the cruise has active options and family programming — kids clubs, pool time, and onboard activities like pickleball and art classes — so younger families can enjoy it too. If you want late-night partying, this isn’t the cruise for you; it’s more choose-your-own-adventure: pack your days with excursions or relax in the spa watching the shoreline slide by.
Bottom line
I got my sea legs and survived my first Alaska cruise. Whereas my earlier short-calls cruise to the Bahamas left me feeling I hadn’t really seen much of the places we visited, the Great Bear Rainforest itinerary’s longer stops and thoughtful programming let me experience this lesser-visited region at a deeper level. I returned to Seattle feeling connected to the rainforest and eager to go back and explore more.
